An overview of the use of proteolytic enzymes as exfoliating agents

菠萝蛋白酶 蛋白水解酶 蛋白酵素 木瓜蛋白酶 化学 肽水解酶类 生物化学 蛋白酶
作者
Thalles Canton Trevisol,Rosana Oliveira Henriques,Ana Júlia Antunes Souza,Agenor Fúrigo
出处
期刊:Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology [Wiley]
卷期号:21 (8): 3300-3307 被引量:14
标识
DOI:10.1111/jocd.14673
摘要

Proteolytic enzymes are biological catalysts that can compose cosmetic formulations: These enzymes are capable of mimicking the desquamation process of the skin, acting as exfoliants. Although enzymatic exfoliation is not new and commercial products were easily found, there is a lack of scientific literature about this topic.A search was carried out until 2021 in different scientific databases (Web of Science, Scopus, Scielo, PubMed, etc.). In vitro and in vivo studies that evaluated the application of enzymes aiming to exfoliate the skin or with a similar cosmetic or dermatological application were selected.Only 11 articles were found, and, among them, few studies applied enzymes as exfoliants in clinical trials. Nevertheless, the results demonstrate that the enzymes can exfoliate the skin and improve some desired characteristics of the organ. Papain, bromelain, keratinases, and microbial proteases are some enzymes already applied as exfoliants. The study of pH, temperature, and stabilization of the enzymes in cosmetic formulations were also demonstrated to be important aspects to be evaluated, principally in preventing loss of enzyme activity and possible allergens/irritations on the skin.This literature review showed the main aspects that should be evaluated before considering producing or applying proteolytic enzymes in exfoliation products/procedures. The use of enzymatic exfoliation has potential in the cosmetic industry. Hence, further robust in vivo studies are needed before the enzymatic exfoliation can be recommended with safety as a treatment modality in the current conditions.
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