Rosemary extract and rosmarinic acid accelerate elastic fiber formation by increasing the expression of elastic fiber components in dermal fibroblasts

Ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin photoaging is caused by qualitative and quantitative degradation of dermal extracellular matrix components such as collagen and elastic fibers. Elastic fibers are important for maintaining cutaneous elasticity, despite their small amount in the skin. Previously, microfibril-associated protein 4 (MFAP-4), which is downregulated in photoaging dermis, has been found to be essential for elastic fiber formation by interaction with both fibrillin-1 and elastin, which are core components of elastic fiber. In addition, enhanced cutaneous MFAP-4 expression in a human skin-xenografted murine photoaging model protects against UV-induced photodamage accompanied by the prevention of elastic fiber degradation and aggravated elasticity. We therefore hypothesized that the upregulation of MFAP-4 in dermal fibroblasts may more efficiently accelerate elastic fiber formation. We screened botanical extracts for MFAP-4 expression-promoting activity in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). We found that rosemary extract markedly promotes early microfibril formation and mature elastic fiber formation along with a significant upregulation of not only MFAP-4 but also fibrillin-1 and elastin in NHDFs. Furthermore, rosmarinic acid, which is abundant in rosemary extract, accelerated elastic fiber formation via upregulation of transforming growth factor β-1. This was achieved by the induction of cAMP response element-binding protein phosphorylation, demonstrating that rosmarinic acid represents one of the active ingredients in rosemary extract. Based on the findings in this study, we conclude that rosemary extract and rosmarinic acid represent promising materials that exert a preventive or ameliorative effect on skin photoaging by accelerating elastic fiber formation.