Onggi’s permeability to carbon dioxide accelerates kimchi fermentation

Since ancient times, Korean chefs have fermented foods in an onggi, a traditional earthenware vessel. The porous structure of the onggi mimics the loose soil where lactic acid bacteria is naturally found. This permeability has been purported to facilitate the growth of lactic acid bacteria, but the details of the process remain poorly understood. In this combined experimental and theoretical study, we ferment salted napa cabbage in onggi and hermetic glassware and measure the time course of carbon dioxide concentration, which is a signature of fermentation. We present a mathematical model for carbon dioxide generation rate during fermentation using the onggi’s gas permeability as a free parameter. Our model provides a good fit for the data, and we conclude that porous walls help the onggi to ‘exhale’ carbon dioxide, lowering internal levels to those favoured by lactic acid bacteria. The positive pressure inside the onggi and the constant outflow through its walls act as a safety valve for bacteria growth by blocking the entry of external contaminants without mechanical components. We hope this study draws attention to the work of traditional artisans and inspires energy-efficient methods for fermenting and storing food products.