Nanostructured Ethosomal Gel Loaded with Arctostaphylosuva-Ursi Extract; In-Vitro/In-Vivo Evaluation as a Cosmeceutical Product for Skin Rejuvenation

Arctostaphylosuva-ursi(AUU) being rich in polyphenols and arbutin is known to have promising biological activities and can be a potential candidate as a cosmaceutical. Ethosomes encourage the formation of lamellar-shaped vesicles with improved solubility and entrapment of many drugs including plant extracts.The objective of this work was to develop an optimized nanostructured ethosomal gel formulation loaded with AUU extract and evaluated for skin rejuvenation and depigmentation.AUU extract was tested for phenolic and flavonoid content, radical scavenging potential, reducing power activity, and in-vitro SPF (sun protection factor) estimation. AUU loaded 12 formulations were prepared and characterized by SEM (Scanning Electron Microscopy), vesicular size, zeta potential, and Entrapment Efficiency (%EE). The optimized formulation was subjected to noninvasive in-vivo investigations after incorporating it into the gel system and ensuring its stability and skin permeation.Ethosomal vesicles were spherical in shape and Zeta size, zeta potential, PDI (Polydispersity Index), percentages of EE and in-vitro skin permeation of optimized formulation (F3) were found to be 114.7nm, -18.9mV, 0.492, 97.51±0.023%, and 79.88±0.013% respectively. AUU loaded ethosomal gel formulation was stable physicochemically and exhibited non-Newtonian behavior rheologically. Moreover, it significantly reduced skin erythema, melanin as well as sebum level and improved skin hydration and elasticity.A stable AUU based ethosomal gel formulation could be a better vehicle for phytoextracts than conventional formulations for cosmeceutical applications such as for skin rejuvenation and depigmentation.