Simultaneous determination of four <italic>N</italic>-lauryl amino acid surfactants in facial cleansers by high performance liquid chromatography-ultraviolet detection

Significant developments have recently been achieved in the field of N-lauryl amino acid (NLAA) surfactants derived from renewable resources. Compared with conventional surfactants, NLAAs exhibit remarkable surfactant properties, exceptional biodegradability, good biocompatibility, and high safety profiles. These attributes have led to the widespread use of NLAAs in personal-care products. The detection methods employed for NLAAs include two-phase titration (TT), spectrophotometric analysis (SA), and high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). However, because both TT and SA measure the total concentration of anionic active matter, identifying and quantifying individual compounds in a sample containing multiple anionic surfactants is impossible. The presence of cationic surfactants in the sample also introduces interferences, which lead to significant errors. Compared with TT and SA, HPLC offers direct and rapid testing procedures. However, compounds with no or weak UV-visible light absorption exhibit low sensitivity when detected by UV, necessitating the use of detectors such as differential refractive index detectors (RIDs), evaporative light scattering detectors (ELSDs), or charged aerosol detectors (CADs). Most HPLC users consider UV light as the fundamental configuration of the instrument, and other detectors are less commonly employed. Therefore, establishing a new HPLC method suitable for the UV detection of NLAAs is of practical significance.

In this study, a novel HPLC-UV method was developed for the simultaneous detection of N-lauryl glutamine (LG), N-lauryl glycine (LC), N-lauryl alanine (LA), and N-lauryl sarcosine (LS) by optimizing the mobile-phase composition and selecting an appropriate chromatographic column and detection wavelength. The samples were mixed with acetonitrile-0.10% H₃PO₄ aqueous solution (60∶40, v/v) and sonicated for 10 min, then stayed at room temperature for 5 min. Subsequently, the mixture was filtered through a 0.22 μm filter membrane and separated on an Agilent Eclipse Plus C18 column (150 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm). The mobile phase used for separation consisted of acetonitrile-0.10% H₃PO₄ aqueous solution at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min. The detection wavelength was set at 205 nm, and the injection volume was 10 μL. The results demonstrated that the four NLAAs exhibited good linearity in the range of 2.0-800.0 mg/L, with correlation coefficients (r)≥0.9995. The limits of detection (LODs) ranged from 0.17 to 0.49 mg/L, and limits of quantification (LOQs) ranged from 0.57 to 1.63 mg/L. The relative standard deviations (RSDs) for precision, repeatability, and stability over 24 h were all below 2.0%. Using this method, the NLAA contents of five facial-cleanser products were determined. The results demonstrated that all five samples contained one or more NLAAs, and the total NLAA contents ranged from 64.58 to 97.01 mg/g. The five spiked-sample recoveries of the NLAAs at four different spiked levels (0.60, 4.50, 15.00, 24.00 mg/g) ranged from 94.3% to 107.4%, indicating satisfactory accuracy. However, the actual NLAA composition and label for one facial-cleanser product were not consistent with our test results. This finding demonstrates the necessity of strengthening market monitoring through testing. The proposed method has the advantages of simple pretreatment, rapid testing, good precision, high accuracy, and appropriate stability. Thus, it is suitable for the determination of NLAA contents in facial cleansers and provides an effective technical reference for the raw-material purity assessment, synthetic yield detection, and product quality control of this type of surfactant.