Some Medieval Colour Terms for Textiles

During the Middle Ages, the broad spectrum of textile colours was described by a correspondingly wide range of names intended to beguile the customer. Some captured the nuances of delicate shades such as “dove grey” and “old rose,” while others, like “crimson,” croceus, or alessandrino, signalled the commercial value or exotic origin of the dyestuffs involved. Some terms were mainly used for wool, with others reserved for silk, reflecting the different dyestuffs used on the two fibres. The subject of textile colours is too enormous to be treated comprehensively here, and this paper will discuss a limited selection of colour terms from the late medieval period, looking at their meaning, how and when they arose, and how they can be related to surviving textiles. Focusing on England, France, and Italy, it will examine material starting from the thirteenth century and ending (beyond the Middle Ages) with three published inventories from the reign of Elizabeth I (r. 1558–1603) made in 1600.