Effect of emulsification parameters on the rheology, texture, and physical stability of cosmetic emulsions: A multiscale approach

This study presents a multiscale approach for the production of cosmetic emulsions to evaluate the influence of emulsification on the macroscopic and microscopic properties of the product. This study evaluates the effects of the impeller pumping capacity and tip velocity on the rheological and textural properties of the cosmetic emulsions at the macroscopic scale as well as the effect of these parameters on the average drop size and the drop size distribution at the microscopic scale. This study also considers the influence of the pumping capacity and tip velocity on the physical stability of cosmetic emulsions. Two dispersed phase concentrations were used in this study (i.e., 30 % and 80 % w/w) to evaluate the effect of the product formulation on the performance of the cosmetic emulsions. The results showed that the impeller pumping capacity and the tip velocity are key parameters to control the energy demand and drop formation during the emulsification process (mean drop size and drop size distribution). These parameters also govern the microscopic structure of the emulsions, which has a strong influence on the macroscopic performance of the product. Thus, the tip velocity and pumping capacity are proposed as appropriate scale-up factors for the emulsification process. • Effect of emulsification parameters on cosmetic emulsions properties is studied. • Impeller pumping capacity impacts energy consumption during emulsification. • Impeller tip velocity governs drop deformation and breakage. • Comparable emulsions are obtained for constant tip velocity and pumping capacity. • Pumping capacity and tip velocity are suitable factors for emulsification scale-up.