Evolving Advances in the Cosmetic use of Probiotics and Postbiotics: Health, Regulatory and Marketing Aspects

Abstract: Ongoing development in cosmetics is increasingly making use of probiotics, which are defined as “live microorganisms with health-enhancing properties mediated through ingestion or topical application to the host”. The observation that several bacterial strains augment normal processes of healthy tissue maintenance, particularly for the skin, has opened up new avenues for the use of bacterial strains in cosmetics. A principal feature of such “cosmeceuticals” is an application of increasing insight into the biochemical nature of the skin’s normal microbial flora, also called its microbiome. The opportunity of manipulating the skin microbiome to address various skin disorders has revealed novel routes for treatment. The skin microbiome manipulation approaches to address various skin disorders include skin microbiome transplantation, skin bacteriotherapy, and prebiotic stimulation. Research in this field has revealed that medical outcome-targeted manipulation of skin microbiome bacterial strain makeup may significantly increase skin health and appearance. Commercial availability of probiotic skincare products is rapidly expanding worldwide due to satisfactory laboratory results and public perception of probiotics as being intrinsically more wholesome than other bioactive substances, such as synthetics. Major outcomes of probiotic use include a significant reduction in skin wrinkling, acne and other conditions adversely affecting skin appearance and healthy function. Moreover, probiotics may additionally promote normal skin hydration, resulting in a vibrant and lustrous appearance. Nevertheless, significant technical challenges remain for the full optimization of probiotics in cosmetic products. This article summarizes the evolving nature of this field and explores current probiotic research initiatives, along with regulatory aspects and significant challenges in the manufacturing of cosmetics in the context of market expansion for these products.