破碎波
简单(哲学)
断路器
集合(抽象数据类型)
机械
理论物理学
物理
波传播
工程类
计算机科学
光学
机械工程
认识论
哲学
程序设计语言
作者
Bernard Le Méhauté,Robert C. Y. Koh,Li-San Hwang
出处
期刊:Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division
[American Society of Civil Engineers]
日期:1968-02-01
卷期号:94 (1): 77-92
被引量:27
标识
DOI:10.1061/jwheau.0000555
摘要
A critical survey of existing theories and experiments on wave run-up is carried out. The theories of run-up of nonbreaking waves are analyzed first. Breaking criteria and the main theories of run-up of breaking waves are presented, including the theories for the run-up of a bore, the nonsaturated breaker theory, and the numerical method for calculating run-up. This set of various theories is compared with experimental investigations. A simple case illustrates how the wave run-up can be enhanced by resonance effects.
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