Exploratory in vivo biophysical studies of stratum corneum lipid organization in human face and arm skin

The purpose of this in vivo exploratory study was to investigate human stratum corneum (SC) lipid conformational order and chain packing in healthy face (cheek) skin as a function of stratum corneum depth using a combination of tape-stripping and horizontal attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (HATR-FTIR) spectroscopy. Equivalent data were also collected from volar forearm skin as we, and others, have previously characterized forearm SC lipid order as a function of depth, therefore these data served as a comparison site and an experimental internal standard for the previously unmeasured in vivo face skin data. An SC depth profile was achieved by using tape strips to sequentially remove "layers" of SC. Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were recorded following each sequential tape strip. In vivo HATR-FTIR spectra were collected after each tape strip, providing a depth profile of spectral data through the SC of both faces and arms. Spectral data were analyzed at five discrete SC depths corresponding to baseline and SC depths at which the increase in TEWL was 25, 50, 75, and 100 percent (%) from the baseline measurement. Analysis of the SC in vivo HATR-FTIR spectroscopic data utilized mean spectra generated by averaging the spectra from all panelists (n = 10) at the five specific SC depths corresponding to when TEWL had increased by 25, 50, 75 and 100 % from baseline for each subject, respectively. While this is an exploratory study, and the data could be collated and processed in many ways, the average spectral data reveal clear trends in the face and arm SC. Increasing SC lipid order with depth is observed for face skin, as with arm skin, albeit with significant differences at all relative depths in the absolute lipid order between faces and arms. In vivo SC lipids are significantly more ordered at all depths in arms versus cheeks. The less ordered SC lipids of face skin can be in part attributed to the presence of a high amount of fluid sebaceous lipid species observed deep into the face SC. Interestingly, no evidence of orthorhombic packing is observed at any depth in face SC. This is consistent with the high degree of disorder indicated from the chain fluidity measurements. These in vivo HATR-FTIR depth studies of face skin highlight how different SC barrier organization is in the face compared to the more widely studied body sites such as arms and legs. Further studies of the SC lipid barrier in faces are needed to understand the significant differences in lipid organization and its implication for the penetration of drug and cosmetic actives through face skin.