破碎波
物理
低谷(经济学)
波峰
潮位计
气象学
波传播
海平面
海洋学
光学
地质学
经济
宏观经济学
作者
Karoline Holand,Henrik Kalisch,Maria Bjørnestad,Michael Streßer,Marc Buckley,Jochen Horstmann,Volker Roeber,Ruben Carrasco,Marius Cysewski,Håvard G. Frøysa
出处
期刊:Physics of Fluids
[American Institute of Physics]
日期:2023-09-01
卷期号:35 (9)
被引量:2
摘要
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in terms of temporal wave trough area, and a differential parameter is defined in terms of maximum steepness of the crest front period. The criteria tested here are based solely on sea surface elevation derived from standard pressure gauge records. They identify breaking and non-breaking waves with an accuracy between 84% and 89% based on the examined field data.
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