Extraction, moisturizing activity and potential application in skin cream of Akebia trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz polysaccharide

Akebia trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz is gaining popularity, because of its high nutritional, economic and medicinal values. The purpose of this study was to optimize the extraction conditions of A. trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz polysaccharide (ATKP) and investigate moisturizing activity to prepare a novel moisturizing cosmetic material. It has been observed that using polysaccharide yield as the evaluation criterion showed optimal extraction at a material-liquid ratio of 1:20, an ultrasonic temperature of 80 °C, an ultrasonic time 50 min and ultrasonic power of 175 W. Furthermore, three deproteinization methods of ATKP process, including Sevag, enzymatic hydrolysis and their combination method, were evaluated. The deproteinization efficiency of the Sevag and enzymatic hydrolysis combination method was the highest, with a deproteinization efficiency of 87.52 %. The moisturizing capacity of ATKP was significantly higher than that of chitosan and sodium alginate. ATKP-containing skin cream, particularly the combination of 4.2 % glycerol and 0.8 % ATKP, had an excellent moisturizing effect, and was added to cosmetic formulations to form skin creams. The findings revealed that ATKP has the potential synergistic effect with glycerol in the development of cosmetic formulations, which could be used as a new material for natural moisturizers.