LB726 The combination of 0.5% retinol with a naturally derived TRPV 1 antagonist and anti-inflammatory botanical extract helps mitigate retinoid-induced irritation

The use of topical retinol is recognized as the gold standard for the treatment of photodamaged skin. However, topical application of retinol can potentially cause irritation manifested as burning sensation, erythema, peeling, or dryness. This can contribute to non-compliance or discontinuation of use for many individuals. Studies have shown that adjustments in timing and concentration levels can help mitigate the induced effects of retinol. There is very little understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying retinoid irritation, however it has been shown that TRVP1 antagonists help mitigate irritation. Here, we designed a cosmetic formulation containing 0.5% retinol and a naturally derived plankton extract shown to antagonize TRPV1, and rosemary extract shown to suppress expression of multiple inflammatory cytokines. In consultation with a dermatologist we designed an 8-week gradual retinization process and using this protocol, subjects who applied the formulation demonstrated high tolerability and reduction in dermatologist-assessed erythema, edema, and dryness. Panelist self-evaluations reported few moderate sensory discomfort scores and reduction in erythema. Separate clinical studies were conducted to evaluate skin pigmentation, global fine lines and wrinkles, skin tone evenness, overall photodamage, and skin texture/smoothness as clinical measurements. The formulation provided statistical improvements in each parameter (p<0.05) at both 4 and 8-weeks as expected from a formulation containing retinol. The combination of retinol with naturally-derived anti-inflammatory agents, along with a gradual retinol application is a clinically relevant approach to help mitigate retinoid irritation while improving subject tolerability and compliance over time.