Encapsulation of cycloastragenol in phospholipid vesicles enhances transport and delivery across the skin barrier

Cycloastragenol (CA) is a plant saponin that functions as a telomerase activator, and it has been made as an oral anti-aging supplement and use as active ingredient in topical cosmetic products. The anti-aging performance in cosmetic products have only been evaluated by description of skin appearance, while direct topical penetration of CA across the skin barrier still needs to be confirmed. The objective of this work was to design encapsulation vehicles to deliver CA across the skin barrier using commercially available ingredients through scalable processes, and to prove its topical penetration. Phospholipid vesicles including liposomes, ethosomes, and transethosomes were prepared using soy and sunflower phospholipids and different penetration enhancers, including ethanol and surfactants. The loading capacity of CA was analyzed using high performance liquid chromatography, and the topical penetration of CA was evaluated using Franz diffusion cells with pig skin. Transethosomes using Tween 80, Span 40, or dicetylphosphate as the penetration enhancer showed better CA delivery across the skin barrier than ethosomes or emulsifier α-gels. Results of this work provide evidence that CA encapsulated in phospholipid vesicles can be transported across the skin barrier. These encapsulation systems could be used for the design of CA-containing anti-aging cosmetic products.