Reversing UVB‐induced photoaging with Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx aqueous extract

Abstract BACKGROUND Hibiscus sabdariffa is commonly used in daily life and its extract is applied widely in food and cosmetics. However, it has not been evaluated for its anti‐aging effects. RESULTS Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx aqueous extract (HSCAE) has shown potential collagenase activity suppression effects, together with tyrosinase activity inhibition, and anti‐oxidation as a free radical scavenger. The current investigation demonstrated that HSCAE was not cytotoxic in skin fibroblasts, and it significantly decreased ultraviolet B (UVB)‐induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) on a flow cytometry assay. Moreover, HSCAE reduced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression, increased tissue inhibition of metalloproteinase (TIMP)‐1 level, and enhanced collagen content by inhibiting collagenase activity. It also blocked mRNA and protein expressions of melanin production pathway key factors, including the microphthalmia‐associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase‐related protein‐1 (TRP‐1), and dopachrome tautomerase‐2 (TRP‐2). CONCLUSION These results demonstrated, for the first time, the potential of HSCAE as a natural antioxidant with the ability to maintain collagen production and to decrease melanin syntheses under UVB radiation, for anti‐aging effects. © 2019 Society of Chemical Industry