Fibroblast‐derived growth factors and exosomes as cosmeceuticals

Abstract Introduction Fibroblast (FB)‐derived growth factors have been successfully used in skincare to improve the appearance of aged and photodamaged skin for over 20 years. Conditioned media from FB culture, used as a source of growth factors in these early products, also contain extracellular vesicles including bioactive exosomes. Exosomes are tiny extracellular vesicles that have been isolated from the secretome of human‐derived mesenchymal stem cells (MSC), adipose‐derived stem cells, or fibroblasts for potential clinical application in wound healing, skin rejuvenation, skin disease, pigmentation, and hair growth. Purpose Here, we review the potential application of dermal FB‐derived growth factors and exosomes in maintaining the structure and function of healthy skin. Specifically, we discuss how to collect and characterize FB‐derived exosomes, formulation considerations for skincare products that may contain exosomes, and provide preliminary data to support its clinical use in improving skin quality. Results Exosomes were successfully isolated from FB secretome and characterized for their content, markers, biological activity, and clinical effects. Condition of growth medium affected exosomes compositions and properties. Product containing 98 billion EVs /mL used twice a day for 12 weeks resulted in statistically significant improvement in all skin aging parameters tested including wrinkles, roughness, sagging and laxity. Conclusion Overall, active exosomes can be identified along with growth factors in the secretome of dermal fibroblasts and may provide an additional benefit for aging skin if its biological activity remains stable in the product formulation.